Essay / 9 November 2026 / By: Julia Silverberg
EROTICA MANIA: New York’s Erotic Art Fair
The online erotic archive is NOT ENOUGH. Make an erotic physical unsurveilled archive of your own this christmas. JULIA SILVERBERG (who was our intern for a hot second and is now a correspondant) went down to Bushwick to survey the hottest ticket in town, a **fair which at first we considered to be filled with the likes of instagram archive pages that run their own bookshop - but it fact, according to Silverberg, it is actually filled with personal collections of smut.
Full Vendor List includes: Soft Skin Latex, Joseph Vasta,Greasy Cinema, Nicholas Des Jardins,Ion Birch, Dad’s Secret Stash, Erotomechanics Bookshop, Self Help Smut, Fungus Books, Ouijasciencefiction & GrimRoar, ShowWorld, C.S. Miller Books, Private Connections, Erotic Books Unlimited, Pansy Ass Ceramics , Spank Bank Enterprizes, J.P. CLASSI, Katie Rose, Invitation Only, Roman Ocadiz, Harlequin Vintage, Infidelity Mutual and Vintage X Videos.
The backyard features a "Huge Backyard blowjob installation" by London based bookshop Ram Books where no one on the hollywood editorial has ever been.
— Sydney Sweeney
It was pouring rain as everyone waited to get into Please Knock’s Erotic Art Fair this October. The line went down the street, and my friends tried to huddle together with the strangers who’d stood for twenty-ish minutes before getting through the door. I was kind of shocked so many people came out. Even a bit surprised I’d made it forty minutes on the J. I pulled my ID from my bag as the security guard held up his fingers in a half-square, gesturing for one—it was a 21+ event. Once inside, for 5 dollars, I tossed my umbrella into a growing pile and followed the wet footprints through the space, which was cramped for an erotica fair on a Saturday afternoon.
Ion Birch

TV Eye, the Ridgewood venue, was packed, people standing hip to hip. Like pornography, it was obvious—in your face. A painting of a naked man in tall black boots was resting in the back of the room, something that was part of TV Eye before the fair, watching everyone as they pushed past each other and into the main room, which, like most art fairs, was configured in rows of tables that were misaligned and hard to reach.### Everyone was dripping, rain still falling from the eyelashes of both gooners and collectors. Only the really skilled could tell the difference between the two.
The fair emphasized “erotic” art. Pornography is different. Ian Frederick Moulton, a specialist on sex in early European lit, explains it better than I could: “in its widest application, pornography may be said to refer to cultural productions that depict human sexual activity in a relatively explicit manner, and that are seen by some observers as being offensive or morally reprehensible.” - Before Pornography

(Unknown Photographer)
Caravaggio compared the courtesan to the Madonna, painting the courtesan as the Madonna—an early offense. Though, because the painter’s works were not explicit, they fall into the category of erotica. Either can arouse; neither has to. Unlike Caravaggio’s courtesans, the work at the Erotic Art Fair was somehow sexually de-charged, serving a purpose other than provocation. Scanning non gimp-masked faces, no one was offended. Some held an overpriced early afternoon IPA in one hand while nudes were passed back and forth like it’s something done every day. Maybe it is. Much of the vintage stock on display came from personal archives. At some booths, a single photo went for upwards of $100, making the internet seem somewhat democratic again by comparison. Walking past the bar and into a room of people lined up behind tables for their turn just to get a look, I felt overwhelmed in the same vein as Printed Matter. It wasn’t kinky, but it's an art fair, not a NY KitKat club, and it’s not meant to be. It’s a place where images that aren’t digitized, vintage and contemporary, can be seen, and engaged with.
My problem with viewing erotica online is that it flattens everything into the same thumbnail. At the fair, a photo has a sleeve, a price (maybe too high), stains, and a vendor who won’t tell you where it came from. Going out and choosing is the control play that makes erotica interesting.


Irving Klaw the “Pin-Up King”
I sifted through piles of images, probably from estate sales and stashes kept under beds until their owners died, and in a fingerprinted plastic sleeve was a photo by Irving Klaw. I’m fairly sure the woman on the bed with the U-shaped bangs is his muse, Bettie Page, model, early Playmate of the Month, and frequent subject of Bunny Yeager, another pin-up model turned photographer.

(Photo of Bettie Page by Irving Klaw, for sale on eBay)
I’d never heard of Klaw until I Googled him, which turned up a lot of legal trouble over burlesque-y pictures inspired by Hollywood stars. His idea was simple. Girls were already tearing their favorite starlets out of magazines and taping them to their walls, so he sold them better pictures. He didn’t invent the pin-up, but he started Movie Star News, which sold exclusive prints from publicity stills, until the internet killed the exclusivity and anyone could download an image for free (ask our Sydney Sweeney, she’s everywhere).
The other business was mail-order erotica. The U.S. Postal Service called him one of the nation’s biggest pornography distributors of the 1950s, he was dragged through McCarthy-esque hearings as a degenerate, and most of his images were destroyed. This one wasn’t. It survived and ended up in Ridgewood, in a plastic sleeve covered in strangers’ fingerprints, and mine. Hot.

Michelangelo Antonioni’s 1966 Blow-Up referenced pin-up poses to create believable scenes about a young fashion photographer capturing models like Jane Birkin and Veruschka in his studio. That wasn't at all the scene at the Erotic Art Fair, but there were a few I could tell were searching for future references greedily—the people whose eyes had that weird hyper-focus. The NYT coined “porno chic” in 1973, Emmanuelle followed in 1974, and erotica on the fashion set blew up.
“Porno chic” is chic if done right. The poses in some of the vintage photos at the Erotic Art Fair made my photographer friends want to take them home. There was something really strange and amazing inscribed into the postures. The whole body was used in each pose. When we asked the man in the bright blue and red OnlyFans shirt at the booth where the photos were from, he didn’t know. He just got mad that we were taking lots of photos without buying anything (part of the problem).

Andrew Richardson, of the LES boutique that sells out of sloganed t-shirts, was spread across a table. He assisted Steven Meisel before going out on his own, which tracks, since his whole thing is the gap between erotica and high fashion. His magazine, Richardson, launched in 1998. You can spot it by the issue number written in bold across a woman’s chest, A1 through A12. Very downtown. The shop is a few blocks from the New Museum.
The California Issue (2025) is the latest. It’s one of the only publications devoted entirely to the spot where erotica meets art (think early Purple), and somehow it still has the money to exist.
What got me, aside from the man at the booth recommending it with real devotion, was the text: an interview with porn agent Mark Spiegler, an essay by Guido Crepax, some psychoanalytics. Words, in a nude magazine. Smut you can hold. Well well well.

In the back of the fair, strung up like the girl in the above photo, were a few publications hanging from the ceiling. Jurgen Maelfeyt, the publisher behind Art Paper Editions whom I’ve worked with in the past at London’s Offprint Bookfair, was in charge of designing one of them: the Please Knock Calendar 2027. It was 12 months of the horniest artists working: Eric Kroll, Larry Clark, and Nobuyoshi Araki among the bunch. The fair’s founder, Danna Wexler, told me about the calendar: “for me, the value of printed erotica is that it gives the work a physical life. You can spend time with an image, keep it, lend it, or return to it years later. Bruce LaBruce put it beautifully when talking about the Please Knock 2027 Calendar: ‘You get to spend a whole month with someone instead of swiping past them in three seconds.’”

I found a 1980s bondage magazine, about forty pages of black-and-white diptychs and triptychs. Every woman is tied up. Not one is nude. Just suggestive.
The photographer was Paul Brody, and there’s almost nothing about him online beyond a few copies on AbeBooks for around $30, which was true of a lot of what was on those tables. By the time it came out, the free-love era was over and a crackdown on erotica in print was taking place, sadly for Brody. Publishers hid behind pseudonyms and printed tiny runs, and the thin pages fall apart if you look at them wrong or too long. Holding the magazine while people shoved past me, I felt like a damage risk.
Nobody is really archiving this stuff. That’s what makes the fair useful, and also what scatters these magazines into hands no one can trace. Erotica is treated as a grab bag instead of something to preserve, and because of that it actually gets taken out of context in a way few things are.

(Unknown photographer)
–
While standing at a table in front of the main stage, I ran into a friend—let's call her Silver. She’s a 26-year-old dominatrix, who has been working in sex work in New York for the last few years. She told me that she could tell not many people there were sex workers or from the fetish community, but thought that the people who were meant to engage more deeply with the fair would:
“Making it accessible to people to view this stuff is a net good thing at the end of the day. Porn has been abundant. It will continue to be abundant. It holds meaning because it's reflective of culture and it's very political, so collecting it is super valuable for those who are going to use it for something other than gooning. But also hey, if that's what you want to do, fuck it. Though, I did deeply appreciate being able to meet older sex workers and fetish photographers who were reminiscing on their time in the nineties and early 2000s in New York, capturing their own communities. Something that I was reflecting on a lot after the fair was how the documentary style photography of sex workers from back in the day was so raw and intimate. Now, because of our relationship to photography, the internet and social media, we don't see documentary photography that is the same. So, personally I really valued getting to see that, and connecting with those people. I just love the old heads.”
–
Fetish-wear spotted: one pink latex coat. PVC and stilettos: zero.
In the corner where the woman in the amazing coat was standing, you could order chicken, but the rain outside was getting worse, and my friend didn’t have an umbrella.
Who’ll save photos of that?































































